When I first arrived in Amsterdam in April, I was told that I
must try raw herring (
haring), that this was Holland's food star, next to
Stroopwafels and
Gouda cheese. I looked and looked, but realised the timing wasn't right. I was too early. Fishmongers catch these special (minimum 16% fat) herring from mid-May to mid-July in the North Sea, and the first
Hollandse Nieuwe ('Holland's new herring') only start to appear on the market at the beginning of June.
Instead of being raw, like
sashimi, the herring is actually
soused. This means that it's been marinated in a brine which enhances the herring's natural flavours, gives the fish a gorgeous melt-in-the-mouth texture, and preserves them for months of future enjoyment.
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Rotterdam Blaak Market |
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Broodje Haring literally translates to 'herring sandwich' |
When I returned to Holland in June, this was one of my missions: find raw herring. And happily, I didn't have to look far. As a nation-awaited Dutch delicacy (also signalling the beginning of summer), the
Hollandse Nieuwe was being celebrated at every fishmonger in sight. I eagerly ordered a
broodje haring (herring sandwich) at the
Rotterdam Blaak market and as soon as I bit into it, I was in heaven. The fresh, soft-as-goose-down-bread roll was a delightful backdrop to the raw herring and accompaniment of diced white onions, whose sweetness accentuated the herring's mellow yet rich flavour and texture.